While recycling is certainly more prevalent these days; we are also consuming a lot more and therefore generating more waste per person (on average) than we were a couple of decades ago.
The above video is not associated with the text of article but we thought the video would add interest to this page.
Something most of us can do to minimize the amount of garbage we send to landfills is to compost our organic waste such as newspapers, vegetable waste and cardboard - even coffee grinds and eggshells. There's a very easy way to do so that has minimal smell, doesn't take up much space, can chew through a heck of a lot of waste quickly and leave you with a very valuable product.
The workers you'll need to assist you are worms and the process is called vermicomposting.
Our worms, collectively known as "Bob II" have been working hard for us for a couple of years now. They require minimal care, are quiet, never go on strike and incredibly cheap to maintain. Even setting up a worm farm isn't terribly expensive; our ready-made farm cost $50 and the initial worms about $15. Since starting a worm farm we've cut down on the amount of waste we'd usually bin by at least 25%. Over a year that translates into hundreds of pounds.
Our worms spend their entire lives eating our trash, stopping only to reproduce. As far as I know, worms don't even "sleep". A pound of worms (around 4,000) can eat half a pound of organic material in 24 hours!
What's left after their digestion, called castings, is one of the best and safest fertilizers around. It's also ph neutral meaning that it's halfway between acidic and alkalinic - just like water. Castings feel and smell like good soil because effectively that's all they are; in fact, it's said that worm castings are 5 times richer in nutrients than good topsoil.
Castings aren't the only valuable product created, a fluid called leachate that seeps through the material the worms digest is also highly prized. Brown in color, it has no odor to speak of,
"Worm tea", another non-smelly popular worm by-product is made by soaking worm castings in water.
So, what can you feed your worms?
coffee grounds paper cardboard including egg cartons vegetable peelings and waste eggshells The general rule of thumb is if it the waste is plant based, worms can deal with it; with a couple of exceptions; being:
pineapple - contains an enzyme that will dissolve the worms citrus and highly acidic vegetables such as onions (ok in small amounts) green grass clippings should be added sparingly as large amounts generate excess heat and produce ammonia which will kill the worms You can purchase worm farms at most hardware stores or make one yourself.
You'll need:
A plastic tub with a lid A pan for leachate runoff Spacers to place between the tub and the catchment pan All you need to do then is to drill a series of small holes in the walls of the tub to allow air to circulate and holes in the bottom to allow for drainage. Don't be too concerned about worms escaping as they don't like the light. If worms are escaping, it means there is something wrong with the farm; either too dry, too damp or too acidic. You never have to worry about your worms overpopulating as they will self-regulate reproduction. The more waste that's available, the more the worms will reproduce; but bear in mind don't "overfeed" in the early stages while your population is getting established.
To start your worm farm off:
Place a layer of small pebbles in the bottom to assist with drainage Add a couple of loose layers of damp newspaper, building it up to a inch or so thick Then it's just a case of adding waste as it becomes available. The worms will then chew their way up through the material leaving their castings behind. When your tub is full and you can fit no more waste in, don't start pushing it down as you'll most likely crush your composting pals. Remove the layer of waste and a few inches of castings as this will contain most of your worms.
With what's left, put it to one side for use on your garden, add the scraps and worms back in and you're all set to go again. If you purchase a large worm farm, you'll find that most have removable panels at the bottom of the sides to allow for easy removal of castings. It's kinder on the worms and less mess for you as well.
For castings and leachate, while you can use them as is without dilution, the recommended mix is one part leachate/castings to 4 parts soil or water.
Other vermicomposting tips.
Use proper composting worms; garden worms won't be effective Never add any sort of animal products to the farm, including dairy Waste mix should be kept moist, not too dry or wet. A sign of mix that's too wet is a methane or ammonia type odor and worms trying to escape Dampen paper and cardboard products before adding Keep the farm in a shady place Worm farming is cheap, easy, fun and beneficial to the environment. Experience the satisfaction of vermicomposting; I highly recommend it!
Michael Bloch is the author and owner of Green Living Tips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy offering a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment related news to help consumers and business to reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact on the planet.
The above video is not associated with the text of article but we thought the video would add interest to this page.
Something most of us can do to minimize the amount of garbage we send to landfills is to compost our organic waste such as newspapers, vegetable waste and cardboard - even coffee grinds and eggshells. There's a very easy way to do so that has minimal smell, doesn't take up much space, can chew through a heck of a lot of waste quickly and leave you with a very valuable product.
The workers you'll need to assist you are worms and the process is called vermicomposting.
Our worms, collectively known as "Bob II" have been working hard for us for a couple of years now. They require minimal care, are quiet, never go on strike and incredibly cheap to maintain. Even setting up a worm farm isn't terribly expensive; our ready-made farm cost $50 and the initial worms about $15. Since starting a worm farm we've cut down on the amount of waste we'd usually bin by at least 25%. Over a year that translates into hundreds of pounds.
Our worms spend their entire lives eating our trash, stopping only to reproduce. As far as I know, worms don't even "sleep". A pound of worms (around 4,000) can eat half a pound of organic material in 24 hours!
What's left after their digestion, called castings, is one of the best and safest fertilizers around. It's also ph neutral meaning that it's halfway between acidic and alkalinic - just like water. Castings feel and smell like good soil because effectively that's all they are; in fact, it's said that worm castings are 5 times richer in nutrients than good topsoil.
Castings aren't the only valuable product created, a fluid called leachate that seeps through the material the worms digest is also highly prized. Brown in color, it has no odor to speak of,
"Worm tea", another non-smelly popular worm by-product is made by soaking worm castings in water.
So, what can you feed your worms?
coffee grounds paper cardboard including egg cartons vegetable peelings and waste eggshells The general rule of thumb is if it the waste is plant based, worms can deal with it; with a couple of exceptions; being:
pineapple - contains an enzyme that will dissolve the worms citrus and highly acidic vegetables such as onions (ok in small amounts) green grass clippings should be added sparingly as large amounts generate excess heat and produce ammonia which will kill the worms You can purchase worm farms at most hardware stores or make one yourself.
You'll need:
A plastic tub with a lid A pan for leachate runoff Spacers to place between the tub and the catchment pan All you need to do then is to drill a series of small holes in the walls of the tub to allow air to circulate and holes in the bottom to allow for drainage. Don't be too concerned about worms escaping as they don't like the light. If worms are escaping, it means there is something wrong with the farm; either too dry, too damp or too acidic. You never have to worry about your worms overpopulating as they will self-regulate reproduction. The more waste that's available, the more the worms will reproduce; but bear in mind don't "overfeed" in the early stages while your population is getting established.
To start your worm farm off:
Place a layer of small pebbles in the bottom to assist with drainage Add a couple of loose layers of damp newspaper, building it up to a inch or so thick Then it's just a case of adding waste as it becomes available. The worms will then chew their way up through the material leaving their castings behind. When your tub is full and you can fit no more waste in, don't start pushing it down as you'll most likely crush your composting pals. Remove the layer of waste and a few inches of castings as this will contain most of your worms.
With what's left, put it to one side for use on your garden, add the scraps and worms back in and you're all set to go again. If you purchase a large worm farm, you'll find that most have removable panels at the bottom of the sides to allow for easy removal of castings. It's kinder on the worms and less mess for you as well.
For castings and leachate, while you can use them as is without dilution, the recommended mix is one part leachate/castings to 4 parts soil or water.
Other vermicomposting tips.
Use proper composting worms; garden worms won't be effective Never add any sort of animal products to the farm, including dairy Waste mix should be kept moist, not too dry or wet. A sign of mix that's too wet is a methane or ammonia type odor and worms trying to escape Dampen paper and cardboard products before adding Keep the farm in a shady place Worm farming is cheap, easy, fun and beneficial to the environment. Experience the satisfaction of vermicomposting; I highly recommend it!
Michael Bloch is the author and owner of Green Living Tips.com, an online resource powered by renewable energy offering a wide variety of earth friendly tips, green guides, advice and environment related news to help consumers and business to reduce costs, consumption and environmental impact on the planet.
1 comment:
Thank you, Steve ~
I've had a 2x2x1' worm box for a couple of years now & truly appreciate the miracle these little goobers do turning my kitchen scraps into castings that smell like really rich dark soil.
My question is what to do with the rich dark leachate they also produce. I don't add any water to the shredded newspaper bedding/topping, yet a lot of leachate seeps out anyway. The box sits atop a large deep lid (from an old recycling bin) that was holding almost 2 gallons of concentrated leachate.
Assuming leachate was the Liquid Gold week ago I poured diluted leachate on the ground around rose bushes, etc. Yesterday I sprayed EVERYTHING w/leachate diluted in a spray bottle hooked up the hose (set @ 4tsp).
When looking for a correct dilution ratio before giving a jar of leachate to a neighbor, I read that leachate is anaerobic & toxic to plants.
Now I am VERY CONFUSED! Can I use leachate to fertilize or not? Can you settle this question for me? Thank you!
Post a Comment